Rancho Gordo: Experiments from my mostly New World kitchen and gardens

Growing Beans in a Pot

We're finally coming to an end of the planting here in Napa. I have almost 2 acres chock-a-block full of beans that I found in Mexico, ordered from the Internet or were sent from you. This year, with some of the extras, I put them in a regular pot filled with potting soil.

You can use any bean but the runner beans (like Scarlet Runner or Cellini) can cascade down the sides of the pot, looking dramatic and yet yielding a tasty treat!

Don't presoak the beans. Just direct seed them and keep the pot moist until the first signs of life appear, then water as you would any plant after that.

Christmas Limas in Anchovy Dressing

So half of my batch of Christmas Limas went into my debauched pancetta-cream creation. The second half went into a slightly less indulgent salad of sorts.

I strained the beans, reserving the liquid for a later use (and with this bean, believe me, it's worth saving!) I took three oil-packed anchovies and mashed them with a huge clove of garlic and some olive oil. When smooth, I added some wine vinegar and gently tossed the drained, room temperature beans with the dressing. Some parsley for color didn't hurt. Happiness was mine!

I have to say the whole clove of garlic may be a bit much for a raw salad. I'll leave that up to you. This would also be nice served over a bed of undressed beans.

Christmas Limas with Pancetta, Cream and Gorgonzola

I was eating some Christmas Limas and I was thinking about how great they'd be as a side dish with a big steak. Then I started thinking about how well they hold up and how I'm so boring with my squeeze of lime and chopped raw onions as a topping. I dared myself and this is what happened.

I cooked the limas all day in the crockpot with onion, garlic and some olive oil. I kept the heat on, salted the beans and lifted the lid while I prepared the sauce, hoping to reduce and intensify the liquid a little bit.

For the sauce, I sauteed some cubed pancetta in a little olive oil along with some onions and garlic. I then added some half and half and a big, well, huge, pat of gorgonzola cheese. You could use any blue cheese. I whisked them all together and reduced the sauce until it coated the back of a wooden spoon.

I drained the beans and added them to the sauce and let them get to know each other for a few minutes, but not too long. I like the contrast of the relatively bland beans with the intensity of the blue cheese sauce. Internet friends, I fully intended to bring this to the warehouse the next day so that Joan and Dan could share but by the end of the evening, I'd had thirds and there was none left to bring in.

Whatever bean I just happened to make ends up being my favorite until I make a new one, but I have to say, Christmas Limas have staying power. They're starchy like a chestnut but they have a meaty goodness that's hard to resist and they're nothing like those disgusting frozen things your mother tried to force you to eat. And really, they're great with just my usual lime and onions, but sometimes you need to go to town.

Pepitas

This is an easy snack. Once cooked, I also grind them in the molcajete just a bit and add them to a salad. It makes the salad more substantial.

Heat a skillet or comal. The one pictured is a clay comal from San Marcos (Oaxaca). Add a little olive oil and a crushed garlic clove. Saute until the oil is flavored and then push aside the garlic. Add some pumpkin seeds and toss them in the hot oil. Continue cooking and pushing them around until they start popping and most of the seeds turn golden brown. Salt, toss again and then let them cool on a paper towel.

Planting Spring Gardens

I'm nearly finished but the thought of what's left is almost too much.

Here are three new beans I'm growing from Native Seeds/SEARCH. This is an organization that supports the plants and foods of Northern Mexico and the Southwest US. It's a good cause but they do us no favors when some of the seeds they send for growing are shriveled or wrong. I know it's a non-profit but the point is to save seed, so let's get it right!

Hopi Black Pinto. I've tried them before with little luck. Maybe this year!


Cerocahui. I don't remember why I ordered these seeds!


Mount Pima Star. These look a lot like the odd Flor de Mayo I got from an Indian woman in Cholula. I'll grow them both this year and compare.

Now back to the tiller!

Something Good Is Coming

Here's a hint and it's not the corn:

My favorite way to eat corn was to squeeze it with lime and then add a little salt. Now, this chile mixture, from the indigenous Mapuche  of Chile, is a key ingredient.

Rancho Gordo at the Movies: Baby Mama

If you happened to wonder why Baby Mama is the number one movie in the country right now, I think I can frankly say it's because the film features Rancho Gordo beans. There's an outside scene with Steve Martin arguing with Tina Fey and you can clearly see our super-photogenic packages of beans!

Hollywood is fickle but there's also a chance the beans will be in future films about underground street fighting and food blogging. Really!

Call Harry Winston! I wonder if this year they'll have to create a special category for us at the Academy Awards. I wonder if I wonder....

No Napa Market for Rancho Gordo Tomorrow

Unfortunately I have to cancel the Napa market tomorrow. I'll be working- just not at the market. Of course, Joan and Sarah will be in San Francisco and you can always order online.

Squash Blossoms for Breakfast

Everyone knows about goat cheese-stuffed squash blossoms. But don't let your blossom repertoire end there! In Mexico City, I had this lovely omelet type thing and the blossom was embedded in the first egg itself. Topped with panela cheese and served with a side of refried beans made it perfect.

You can also chop them and gently saute them with onions and garlic for a taco or enchilada filling, use in soups and of course stuff them. They are insanely expensive at farmers markets so I suggest you plant a zucchini or some other kind of squash this summer.

Opening Day at the Napa Farmers Market

This Saturday is opening day for a lot of North Bay and Bay Area farmers markets. I've been elected president of the board of directors for our local Napa market so I'll be manning our booth here in town this Saturday for opening day.
The market is held in the parking lot between COPIA and the new Oxbow Public Market.
We've had frost as recently as last week so don't expect tomatoes or eggplant. But there are a lot of new vendors and I think the Oxbow is going to breath new life into the area.
Come say hi!

More on Mashed Beans

I used the mashed beans described in a previous post to make this nacho-like dinner.

On a plate I placed some Rancho Gordo Tortilla Chips and on each chip I spooned on some refried beans, cheese and some poached chicken. This was microwaved for about 90 seconds and then topped with Rio Fuego Very Hot Sauce.

Meet My Mashers: ¡Machacador!

I don't know that I've ever met a bean masher I didn't like.

I pick them up whenever I see them. I like all the different sized but my favorite one is somewhat big and made from madrone wood. It's from Native Seeds/SEARCH and is incredibly substantial.

I always oil them with food-grade mineral oil but even with care, the cheap ones can split. It's not the end of the world although I wonder if food couldn't get trapped and create some trouble.

I don't know if a wooden bean masher works any better than a metal potato masher but it's a nice tool to pick up when you're traveling.

They work well on guacamole as well.

Before you ask, I don't know where you can get these other types in the states and I don't have them for sale.

A Slow Cooker Recipe

Reader Jill Baxter shares this home made slow cooker treat. What is it? It's sort of a chili but I think the most interesting twist is the pilaf mix.

1 pkg Pebbles beans (from Rancho Gordo)

1 pkg Kashi pilaf

1 onion, chopped

2 – 3 cloves garlic, minced (or to your taste)

2 T Mexican Oregano (from Rancho Gordo)

2 T (or more!) Mexican Red Chili Powder (from Rancho Gordo)

3 – 4 dried cascabel peppers (got these from Penzey’s)

5 – 6 C water

1 – 2 cans fire roasted tomatoes, drained

Salt to taste

1. soak beans for 2 – 3 hours

2. into crock pot, add:

            Beans (I added the soaking water)

            5 – 6 C water

            Chopped onion

            Minced garlic      

3.  cook on low for ~4 hours.  Add oregano, chili powder, peppers, Kashi pilaf.

            (note: you can partially cook the pilaf on the stove before adding;

            If you add the pilaf dry, watch the pot because you may want to add more water

4.  continue cooking 3 ½ hours; add tomatoes and salt to taste; continue cooking for another 1 to 1 ½ hours.

Serve with a sprinkle of cheese and a small dollop of low fat sour cream.

(total cooking time in my crock pot was 9 hours)

Rancho Gordo beans in New York Magazine

It's a small but very nice entry about our beans in current issue of New York magazine. Link.

New Tours with Nancy Zaslavsky Announced

There are a lot of ways to see Mexico.  I'd think one of the nicest would be on a tour with Nancy Zaslavasky, author of A Cook's Tour of Mexico

Nancy just announced a tour to Oaxaca for late October (including the Days of the Dead) and the Yucatan for next January. These are small group (10 people or less) and you better have a drink or two for me if you're lucky enough to go.

Visit Nancy's website for more information.

Mashed Beans (as opposed to Refried Beans)

I've mentioned refried beans here before and really, it's great way to use up a fading pot. The proper method involves almost disintegrating onions in a bit of lard and then rubbing them against the bottom of a pan with a bean masher. I love these beans but maybe they're best saved for a Sunday morning treat instead of a daily indulgence, especially when you are becoming more and more "robust" with the passing of time.

Really all you have to do is mash some leftover beans. You don't need the lard, or any other fat, if you like the flavor of the beans. I of course am manic and collect bean mashers, but a potato masher will do. You can use an immersion blender if you like but I personally prefer a little texture and find the mashers perfect and easy.

If you beans are dry, just add a little water and mash away. If they are very wet, mash and keep heating them until the liquid starts to evaporate. Neither situation should be much of a problem.

Enjoy them as a side dish, over toast, in tacos or whatever enters your head.

Now I Know What It Means....

....to miss New Orleans. Finally.

I've avoided New Orleans the way I avoid big parties on New Year's Eve and dancing at day weddings. I'm a carefree and exciting kind of fellow but when the expectation and obligation of "good times" stares me in the face, I avoid it. This was my assumption about New Orleans, almost that is was required that you have the time of your life. And of course I was wrong. New Orleans is a beautiful, gracious city and you can get blotto every night or you can just slowly relish its unique charm or maybe even a combination of both.

Beignet and cafe au lait at the Cafe du Monde. Both were as good as they look.

I was in town to speak at the International Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP) convention. I was on a panel with seminal blogger (and longtime Ferry Plaza market fixture) Pim and Judith Klinger of Aroma Cucina. Judith did a great job as moderator, covering as many bases as possible and asking intelligent questions that were easy to answer. Pim has been blogging as long as anyone and it was interesting hearing her perspective on the nuts and bolts of blogging. I was there to offer a more commercial or agenda-driven outlook on blogging. All in all, it was a great afternoon and I'm thankful and flattered the IACP asked me to be involved. And really, meeting Judith after knowing her online for years was one of the highlights of the whole trip for me. You should bookmark her site.

I've always told my two boys (now ages 6 and 9) that they had a sister but she was a monkey and ran away because they were so mean to her. I know,  therapy is guaranteed, but it's now a standard family joke. I sent them this photo via my Blackberry and told them I had found her again but that she'd split for Atlanta when she heard I was in town.

You almost wouldn't believe the stellar cast of food industry personalities that were there. I'm not going to name drop but I will say I was humbled and like a kid with an autograph book meeting some of my culinary heroes. The programs I attended were smart and informative and I hope I can attend wherever the convention is next year.

Powdered sugar dust on the floor of Cafe du Monde.

I was only in town for three days so I had the most superficial trip imaginable but there's no way I won't go back.

Arbol Sauce on a Poached Egg

Did you make the DeArbol sauce? Have any left?

This may look sweet but it was deadly and delicious. The poached eggs were topped with some of the sauce and a little parma cheese.

Kitchen Cue's Scarlet Runners with Feta, Cilantro and Tomatoes

Chef Shellie Kark has a really neat looking cooking program at her website, Kitchen Cue. It's worth checking out.

Shellie was nice enough to share her Scarlet Runner recipe and it looks like the perfect dish as the bettter weather approaches.

SCARLETT RUNNER BEANS WITH FETA VINAIGRETTE, CILANTRO AND FRESH TOMATOES
Yield: 4 servings

2 c. scarlet runner beans, soaked 6-12 hours
Olive oil
1 small onion, roughly chopped
1 carrot, peeled, roughly chopped
1 celery stalk, roughly chopped
1 heaping t. dried oregano
Salt

Vinaigrette
½ t. oregano
1 clove garlic, finely minced
¼ t. salt
Freshly ground pepper, to taste
3 T. red wine vinegar
1 t. lime juice
¼ c. plus 1 T. olive oil
½ c. finely crumbled Feta cheese
Approx. 2 T. bean liquid, to thin dressing
2 T. chopped cilantro
2 small tomatoes, finely chopped, tossed with salt, pepper and lime juice

Prepare the beans in classic Rancho Gordo style.  Place the beans and their soaking water in a pot and add enough water so they are covered by at least 1 inch.  Begin to bring the beans to a boil over medium-high heat.

While beans are coming to a boil, place a thin film of olive oil in a medium sauté pan.  Heat over medium heat and add onions, carrots and celery. Stir to coat vegetables in oil and sauté until just tender.  Stir in oregano and cook until fragrant.  Gently add vegetables to beans and stir. 

Bring beans to a boil and skim off any foam that rises to the top.  Reduce the heat so the beans are just at a simmer, cover and cook until tender.  Add boiling water if the beans need more liquid to finish cooking, but be stingy; the more concentrated this liquid is, the better flavor it will add to the dish.  Add salt to the beans once they have reached a tender stage.

For the vinaigrette: In a medium bowl combine oregano, garlic, salt, pepper, vinegar and lime juice. Add the olive oil in a slow steady stream, whisking continuously.  Whisk in Feta cheese and thin vinaigrette with some water or bean cooking liquid.

Pour beans into a container or bowl and with a slotted spoon, remove and discard the vegetables. Beans can be cooled in their liquid or served warm. 

To compile salad, drain beans from cooking liquid and toss them with the feta vinaigrette and cilantro.  Season with salt and freshly ground pepper and serve topped with freshly dressed tomatoes.

Beans can be stored in the refrigerator in their liquid for 3 days.

Recipe provided by:    Chef Shellie Kark
            KitchenCUE
            www.kitchencue.com   

Chile Relleno with Shrimp, Scrambled Eggs and Nopales

Well, Internet friends, I think I've done it. This was the best chile relleno so far. The stuffing was poached shrimp, scrambled eggs (straight from the henhouse) and cooked nopales (cactus paddles.) What a winner!

Just to gild the the lily, I stuffed the cavity with cheese. Then I heated it up in the toaster oven for about 8 minutes and the result was nothing short of sublime.

I followed this decadent brunch with a nap. I think I deserved it after coming up with such a nice dish!

Tamales by the Bay

Last year, one of my favorite events was the Benchmark Institute's Taste of Tamales by the Bay. Dozens of tamal makers offered samples, along with our beans and some great Ceja wine.

Of course we'll be there again this year and I'll be spending all of Saturday night cooking pounds and pounds of beans in clay for the event.
April 13, 2008        12 Noon - 4 PM
      Fort Mason Center

North Bay Cooking Classes

My friend Kay Baumhefner is one of my favorite chefs and teachers. Her classes are like nothing else and I recommend them without reservation. I showed up to offer some advice at her bean cooking class last season and I ended up learning much more than I brought to the table.  This season, Kay has this line-up planned:

Petaluma Butter & Eggs Days
Sweet & savory bread puddings and omelets for lazy weekend breakfasts or simple suppers. Includes a butter tasting.

Rice Around the World
Different varieties of rice for delicious & sustaining main course or side dish salads, risottos, pilafs, soubises…

Mother’s Day Tea Time Treats
Transportable finger sandwiches, berry shortcakes & chocolate cream scones, strawberry-rose petal jam and other honoring traditions—treat your self [& someone special]!

Come Home to Paradise Week
Marin Farmers’ Market Field Trips on May 15 [Thurs.] or May 18 [Sun.]: 9:00AM-Noon

Join up at the Marin County Farmers’ Market to meet my favorite growers, learn how to shop fresh for the week, & plan what to do with your individual purchases.

Stock Your Pantry
Customize a master shopping list for organizing your pantry and refrigerator with just enough of the right staples to help you easily create something out of seemingly nothing.

Set Your Week Up with Chicken
How to buy it, cut it up, season it, keep it, roast it to perfection and make the most out of every last bit of it.

Apricots & Cherries
Simple jam with fully ripe fruit, hot cobbler and de-mystifying “pie” dough for ethereal galettes.

Come Home to Paradise Week
Petaluma Farmers’ Market Field Trips
Meet at our own village market to get to know the local growers, become a regular they will recognize, and gain inspiration for a week full of fresh eating.

Summer Beans
Snap beans, wax beans, Romano beans…three bean salads, bean purée, hot & cold chili beans.

For details and more information, contact Kay.

Beans 'n' Butt Stew

Again, customer Canice Flanagan comes up with a great dish:

Beans 'n' Butt Stew



INGREDIENTS

8 ounces Rancho Gordo Pebbles beans, cooked while prep work starts on the stew; you will want to have the pot liquor to add to your stew.

Four strips bacon
1.5 pounds fresh organic pork butt, chopped in 1 - 2" cubes
¼ cup flour, seasoned with salt and pepper
One Diestal (all-natural, smoked) turkey leg.
1 large red onion, chopped
2 pasilla peppers, chopped
1 red bell pepper, chopped
1 orange bell pepper, chopped
2 serrano peppers, sliced
3 cloves garlic, chopped

1 tsp Mexican oregano
1 tsp ground cumin
2 tsp New Mexico chile powder
dollop of adobo sauce along with one small chipotle pepper
2 bay leaves
5 fresh sage leaves

1 (14.5 ounce) can low-sodium chicken broth
1 (14.5 ounce) can diced fire-roasted diced organic tomatoes

Juice from ½ lime

DIRECTIONS

Sweat bacon; meanwhile toss cubed pork in flour.  When fat is rendered from bacon, add pork.  Brown, and then, using a slotted spoon, remove all to a bowl.

Add turkey leg, onion, peppers, and garlic to pot and give a quick stir.  Add in next six ingredients (oregano through sage leaves) and sauté approximately five minutes.

Add chicken broth and tomatoes (with juice)

Add cooked beans and a few generous splashes of the pot liquor.
Cover pot part way and simmer 40 minutes.
Remove turkey leg; when it’s cool enough to handle, strip meat from the bone and chop, returning the meant to pot.  Discard bones.

Stir in the lime juice and serve stew with sour cream and chopped cilantro.

Chicken in Jamaica

There were so many great things to remember about my trip to Guanajuato last Fall that I've started to forget. How could I?

Other than being one of the most beautiful colonial cities in Mexico, it has lots of good food, but it's hidden to your average Joe. As I've written before, I was lucky enough to be hosted by food historian Rachel Laudan and she was kind enough to really show me the ropes.

One of the nicest things I ate was this chicken sauteed in a jamaica (hibiscus flower) sauce. It wasn't sweet but it was clever and memorable and I wish I had the recipe. Our jamaica source is drying up so if you want to try ours, do it sooner than later.

Poblanos Stuffed with Quinoa and Beans

I've been swamped with work lately and the thought of eating out again or buying prepared food (which almost never satisfies, except for maybe a burrito) wasn't looking so good. Instead, I went through my leftovers and came up with a pretty good dinner.

After roasting a peeling some Poblano peppers (you could use regular bell peppers if you like or that's what's on hand), I stuffed them with a mixture of cooked quinoa, cooked ground buffalo and some leftover beans, in this case Red Nightfall.

I used Lorna Sass's method of cooking the quinoa, which is like cooking pasta, in plenty of boiling salted water.
Once stuffed, I crammed the opening with cheese and baked in a hot oven until the cheese melted.

Really, this chile relleno thing can go on and on. The possibilities are endless.