New York, Pressure Cookers and Lorna Sass

I didn't go on and on about my trip to New York but it was great and I get a warm feeling when I think back to that week. Shows, dinners, interviews...it was all too funny. It was almost a cliche!

One of the nice, quieter moments was having lunch with Lorna Sass at her chic Upper West Side apartment. I've known Lorna for awhile now and while I don't know her well, she's one of my favorite friends and I always look up to her on the subject of food.

Lorna is an expert on pressure cookers and grains. Her new book, to be released this winter, is Whole Grains for Busy People and like most of her books, it promises to be a winner.

Lorna is of course the queen of the pressure cooker. I like them and like most people, Lorna's risotto recipe for the pressure cooker changed my way of cooking, for the better.
She, and millions of others in the US, Mexico and India, all agree that the pressure cooker is a fine way to make beans. I get regular letters and emails chastising me about my disdain for pressure cooked beans. It's an okay way to make beans and for me, a last resort. It really changes the texture and makes a lifeless pot liquor. But you may not have the same experience. I think Lorna forgives me.

Comments

[Marta]

Hi Steve,

I loved opening up my 'blogs of note' to find this entry - great post!

Recently I've been thinking of beans (what can I say - I grew up on beans and a lot of the traditions of a first generation Mexican home). I've been thinking about how I don't have them as much, how much I miss having them, and most importantly, why is this so?

This got me thinking about my visits to Cuba - and that ubiquitous pressure cooker. It seemed that no matter whose home I was in, there was a pressure cooker, and always a quick and delicious meal of Congri or Frijol Negro, or any number of other great Cuban dishes. I was intrigued by that contraption, but I didn't trust it -- all that jumping, jingling, hissing and moving parts sounds - I was sure the damn thing would blow up. But god, I loved the dishes it produced.

I decided I would look into pressure cookers to see what was new, if anything, because I really missed my beans.

I mentioned this to Ryan, owner of Kitchen Outfitters down here in Long Beach, and really cool guy who takes the time to talk about and teach on the items found in his kitchen supply store (Ryan's a chef so he really knows his stuff).

Ryan lent me his copy of Lorna Sass' Pressure Perfect to study up on pressure cookers and help me decide which is best for me.

It's a great book! and there is so much new and exciting in the world of pressure cookers. I learned that many of the frightening pressure cookers I saw used in Cuba are first generation cookers. (the women who used these were some kind of brave!) The safety features on the 'second generation' cookers makes it as easy as a walk in the park to use a pressure cooker - and her recipes in this book are fantastic.

After reading the book, I've decided on a European model (best features), but yes, your point is well taken - Frijoles de la holla cannot come from a pressure cooker - I'll have to set aside occasional Sunday noons for that and reward myself with a nice bowl of fresh beans for being virtuous and patient.

By the way - a few doors down from Kitchen Outfitters, is Naples Grocer, a nice specialty grocer and a not-your-run-of-the-mill deli, owned by Ryan's brother, Sean, also a chef.

I walked in one day soon after it opened, and thought, wow, this would be a great place for Steve's heirloom beans.

As I walked in, right there, first thing welcoming me into the store was a nice display of Rancho Gordo beans and spices!

Thanks for this post!

[Jill, The Veggie Queen]

Lorna is my mentor in pressure cooking, which I teach here in Northern California. No, the beans don't come out the same in the pressure cooker but what it does do is get people to cook them, and therefore, eat them more often. And that's a good thing for you Steve.
For anyone afraid of pressure cooking, I have a DVD that helps get rid of that fear. It's fast, easy and quiet these days. Oh, and the beans are yummy. Think soup, stew and chili.

[Sean]

We just made a pot of cellini in our brand new pressure cooker (which is our new favorite toy). I thought they came out very plump and creamy, though we did need to finish them with a little simmering. I didn't notice any detriment to the pot liquor, but I am certain your bean tasting prowess is better than mine!

[Karen Schuppert]

Hey Steve,
Between your book and Lorna's Whole Grains, I am in fiber heaven! OK - delicious recipes, too:) I love this time of year when I can hunker down and really take time for the soaking and let the seasonings permeate. I look forward to her 'busy' book soon.

Re: the Cakebread event...are they giving away the farm at that price?